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18.33 *Just after dusk*
end of November 2006
Near the entrance to the Alhambra
Greetings from the Alhambra!
We have now been to the Alhambra 3 times over our four
days here so far in Granada. She lures in her
visitors from the moment they walk around beautiful
Granada. From many streets you are enticed to look up
at the mighty majestic looming fortress from below
where she perches herself from atop the hill. It is
hard not to feel the mystic memories of an era long
since passed by when she was the jewel of many
empires. Trading hands back and forth from the Arabs
to the Spanish, she always retained her elegant
superiority to other fortresses, palaces and hilltops.
Yes, tis true that the Alhambra has a personality of
her own. Just come take a walk with me..........
Let us walk down the street from our little posada
(inn) right above her entrance and avoid the touristy
entrance by walking past it and through the bright and
colorful forest path down the hill. Burr, its chilly,
better bundle up! As we head down the street bright
yellow and orange leaves fall around us from every
side. We pass some European fountains on our way to a
huge 1000-plus-year-old 'Wine Tower'. As we wind our
way through the thick tower walls we imagine it was
their version of going through customs and security at
an airport nowadays. After a few more winds around
some immensely tall tower walls we come out on the
other side into the gates of the Alhambra. We walk up
the brick and stone old streets and a cat comes out to
greet us. Hola gato! When we arrive up at ground
level we are surrounded by so many tall and ancient
buildings we have to pause and breath in its
immensity. Shall we walk through the huge gates to
the left?
No, let us walk forward to take a look at the view
over the cliffs. The sun is setting and we comment on
how lucky we are to have found such a majestic sight
for the sunset. Another friendly cat comes out of the
intricate gardens that surround us at every turn on
this walk. A little fellow that looks a lot like
Garfield walks out from under an Arabic design made
out of green bushes and meows. `Hola guapo! Ven
aqui`. After we call our cat friend to walk with us
we take in the view. Looking over the ruins of yet
another 1500 year old Arabic palace we are amazed at
how incredibly beautiful Granada looks from above!
Wow, the all white city weaves and turns down below in
the Albaycin, which was the old Arab quarters from
times so far back that it was Granada before the
Alhambra came along. Calls of excited Spaniards echo
across the valley and at the bottom of this same
valley the stream which was once a grand river
glimmers and flows calling out its delightful
response. To the left we see the magnificent rays of
the sun setting behind the tall towers of the Alcazar,
or the fortress. How grand and impenetrable it is.
In fact, it is so impenetrable that no one ever tried.
We were told by a Spanish guide that Granada has
never been attacked. I ponder aloud how rare for a
city that has been so often disputed throughout
history.
The cat is so friendly that as soon as we sit down to
soak up this rare quite moment in the middle of the
Alhambra he sits down on my lap and snuggles deep into
my chest and hands. `Yeah gato, I know, its pretty
darn cold here, si?`.
The moon is rising above the Sultans palace to our
left. We won`t try going down there, since there is
clearly a security guard to stop us. Instead we
remember how glorious of a palace it was when we were
there a couple days ago. Wow, remember how intricate
all of the endless Arabic, white engravings on the
walls were. The decorations were so sparse in color
and form and yet never ending in designs. There were
thousands of patterns and intricately painted or
sculptured designs in every room, every courtyard! I
especially like the ones that looked like stalactites
make out of colorful porcelain that lined many of the
archways and domes! The carving in the wood was also
nice too. Which did you like better, the pools or the
fountains? What, you don`t know which since they were
all so ahead of their time because of their advanced
design? The Arabs were able to do some really amazing
things with their adoration and understanding of
water, yeah?
Let`s keep walking, it will keep us warmer now that
the sun has set. Do you think we are allowed to be
here? Hum, here comes a guard. Well, there he goes
and he didn`t look at us twice, so I guess its ok,
lets go! Adios gato.
We head over to the other side of the large Alhambra
grounds. Did you know that it was also a little city
and it had normal stores and workers who lived there
and artisans and more? `Yeah, I was surprised at that
too`. Only the most skilled workers were chosen to
live so near the rulers. We approach the `Generalife`
side of the grounds. Arch after beautiful arch are
carved out of bushes and lined with rose bushes. Pity
its not the season for the flowers to be in bloom, but
it certainly is beautiful with the deciduous trees
dropping their leaves gently in the wind. Remember
when we were here this afternoon? The sun warmed our
faces and we could smell the orange trees everywhere.
There are so many fountains that the gardens are
filled with sounds of gentle water falling. Look up!
Wow, another palace! Wow, what was that one for? We
listen to our audio guide and it explains it was the
Sultan`s palace away from palace he retreated to in
the summer. Yeah sure, I understand, life can get
pretty tough when you live in one of the most
beautiful Islamic palaces ever built.
So here are more gardens, more orange trees and
terrace after terrace going up the hill around and
through the `Palacio del Generalife`. So many flower
bushes and gorgeous arches. I mention to you that the
arches are what capture me most. Each one is like an
eternity within another eternity. There are just so
many arches behind more arches in front of arches
carved out of plants.......each one of the man built
arches is ordained with thousands of layers of
beautiful Arabic engravings of patterns which let in
the light. Arches which are smooth and like a half
moon, arches that have the point in the top of the
middle.....ones with color, ones in intricate white
patters..........and always with such an impressive
view of gentle white Granada or a serene patio behind!
Wow, the allure of the Alhambra calls me to walk a
bit more and discover yet one more little corner
waiting to be discovered!
Well, it will have to wait until next time because I'm hungry and there are so many cool Arabic tea shops with sweet goodies and 100 kinds of tea (no kidding) to try in each one!
Thanks for taking a walk with me, hope you enjoyed it. If nothing else, it was surly a cheaper way of visiting the Alhambra then going there, wow, we've spent a lot of money here!
Un beso,
Timaria
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