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June 27, 2006

10:54am
Sitting in our sunny bedroom, Neuköln, Berlin


History in the Making


This email is not about the world cup. I am lucky enough to be here during an event that as one Berliner said, `Will likely be written about in the history books some years from now.`. That event is the birth of modern day Germany (this country was established after WWII) starting to be proud of something, anything German.

After WWII Germany was of course devastated physically and psychologically. This psychological depression seeped deeply into the German psyche for generations to come. Although not ONE of the Germans I´ve ever met played any part in the world wars, they all carry traces of shame, disgrace and embarrassment from the role their ancestors played in those tragic events. I can´t really put into words how deep this subtle scare goes, nor can you see it in daily life. It´s one of those wounds you stumble across when you get to really observe a culture. Germans don´t EVER wave flags, t-shirts or hang any sign of any kind that would support their country (except for governmental offices). I don´t mean like they don´t often, I mean like they DO NOT period. Can you imagine no flags on anything in the U.S. or Italy?

This lack of national pride did not simply play out with flags, but in general lack of support for their teams in any international competition. My friend Sebastian told me that he watched past World Cups, he just always rooted for whatever team was playing AGAINST Germany. It was SUPER ´UN-cool´ for Germans to root for Germany. (If you´ve ever heard a German say the word ´cool´ you might laugh that they have the word ´uncool´, for if there was a way to sound ´uncool´ saying the word ´cool´, Germans can do it.)

Now, with the World Cup taking Germany for quite a ride, the country has literally exploded with support for their own country. Another way to view it is that Germans are hopping on the banwagon for the coolest party, and that´s what they are actually supporting. Many say it is not actually support for Germany, but rather support for their soccer (football) team or general enthusiasm that it is here in Germany. Whatever the cause, it is unprecedented. There are so many flags around you would think it was so normal for one to hang a flag from his/her own country. Just like the flag fashion of un-coolness never even existed.

I already told you about how Germans are really rooting for the German team (who by the way is doing quite well and passed into the quarter finals). This too relatively new. Some of my students still don´t really care if Germany wins the cup or not though, the old mentality is not yet dead.

When you think of Germany, what do YOU think of? (I welcome responses.) Most Germans tell me that when they meet people outside of Germany that most people hear the name Germany, and immediatly think of Hitler. (I learned in uni. that only about 30% of Germans were behind Hitler at the time of his election, and I´m sure the number wasen´t exactly rising lots as he continued, so you can see that its not really fair to blame all Germans for him. Gosh, if that were the case, where would Americans be?)

The world is, at least some Germans hope, finally starting to see Germans as something more than Hitler and lederhosen (which by the way are worn about as much as hula skirts are in Hawaii). Who knows, maybe its just the Germans letting go a little and seeing themselves in a new light. Either way, it seems like evolutional healing to me.

This new moment in history is interesting because the ´older´ generations still can´t really let go and participate, but at least they don´t condem it as much as they would have before. It is most certainly the youngest generations who can actually wave a flag. (Sebastian, age 39 says that he´s definitly too old to participate in such a new mentality; the way he was raised to be embarassed of his country is much too strong to be repatterned.) It´s simply still so un-heard of for anyone under 30 to think in such a national-pride-sort of way that they just can´t go there. One of my students (30+) told me yesterday that her friend´s little girl wanted clothing in German colors. This was really hard for the mom. Sebastian, like most other Berliners/Germans I´ve consulted on the matter (hey, got to do my in-depth research for all of you listeners out there tunning into my updates!), says that this new pride and enthusiasm is interesting to watch for the first time, but that they would NEVER be able to buy or wear something which in any way resembled their flag!

Interestingly enough, many of the heaviest German supporters seem to be the Turkish community. Again, totally opposite of matches and sentiment as recent as 2-4 years ago. As Turkey was knocked out before the World Cup started, they have come out in 110% support (they are of course a more passionate race). It is so strange that all of a sudden the Turks are perceived as being behind Germany in a place where there is such a noticeable distinction between the Turks and the Germans. Turks are historically for Turkey, not the country they live in.

Television has picked up on the latter and gone to the little Turkish eating places and asked them why. They responded so naturally, ´Well duh, we live in Germany, of course we support them!`. It almost makes me get goose bumps to see such healing and growing come from a mere sport.

So, it´t time for me to head off to work for the day. Joel and I are just so tired between all our work and the World Cup. We also had to do a border run to Poland on Sunday for tax reasons. We took the VW bus that we bought a few weeks ago from Blake (Kauai), but have just been too busy to use (nor have we switched into the mentality of being car owners). Unfortunately we ended up with a flat tire in the hot afternoon sun and it ended up taking 3 hours to fix (the mechanic showed up without a jack). However, considering that we are not finished changing all the registration etc. and forgot to sign up for ADAC (their version of AAA), it was pretty impressive that the car´s insurance still paid 100% for the tire change!

Have a great day. Happy summer solstice!
                              Timory